Welcome to Japan – Part 3

We have all returned to Kyoto, to the lovely Hotel Kuu for 5 days of exploring. Things had been rather tense among the 4 of us since Hiroshima, so I let Phyllis know that I would prefer spending time in Kyoto on my own, going to places I had on my list of things to see and do – but of course, if she wanted to tag along that would be great. And I was looking forward to meeting up with a very special person

I did want to remind you that if you click on any individual photo in any of the ‘galleries’ and it will open to full size. I apologize in advance for the length of this particular post!

It was dinnertime on the night of our return and I set off to find a nice place to dine. We were surrounded by all types of restaurants – and numerous 7/11’s. These are similar to the 7/11’s we have in the States, but in Japan they also offer a huge array of prepared Japanese-style meals, hot or cold, ready to be microwaved or eaten as-is. Drinks are anything from expresso to saké and a large choice of beers. They are packed with customers from breakfast to late at night. I enjoyed a couple of meals at the 7/11, but tonight I wanted ‘real Japanese.’

Just a block away, behind the hotel, I found orange curtains blowing in a doorway with the words Sushi Ira. This looked like it was a nice restaurant.

When I approached, a lovely young woman stepped forward to stop me from entering and asked if I had a reservation. No, I said. Sorry, she said, but we are fully booked for the evening.

Most Japanese sushi restaurants, which this one was, and especially those that are owned and hosted by a ‘famous chef,’ which this one turned out to be, can seat maybe 10-12 people – tops. When the curtain moved, I could see that this was one such cozy and intimate restaurant.

I was turning to leave when a hand reached out from the curtains and said – stop. A gentleman in a white chef’s coat asked if I were alone. If so, there was one seat available if I wouldn’t mind sitting at the bar instead of a table. He would be honored to serve me a very special dinner. This was the great Chef Onishi Toshiya.

That night I was introduced into the world of what sushi truly is. Hint: It’s more than a California roll!

First, I had to choose my price range. This was based on the cost of the fish being served, most importantly the price of the tuna that had been purchased that morning from the Tokyo fish market. I chose the ‘middle’ range. To this day, and probably forever, it will be the most expensive meal I have ever eaten – and I enjoyed every, single morsel!

Chef Toshiya entertained me throughout, in perfect English, describing each piece of fish served, where on the fish it had been carved, what sauce I should, and should not use, stories of his days in California and New York kitchens, how Steve Jobs loved his sushi, and reminding me that everything tastes better with a little more saké!

Of course, just watching him and his sous chefs (his son was one) prepare each dish was a show all by itself. The night was worth every penny. This was not just a meal – but an event – and I would do it again in a heartbeat. Below is a gallery of each dish I ate. Do I remember what each is? No. But I am so glad I took photos in the order that they were served.

The final dish, the dessert, was an amazing cloud of fruit that floated and then disappeared in the mouth. It was created by another of the Chef’s sons, who just happened to be a dessert chef. His daughter was the Maître d’ – this was a true family affair.

The next day Phyllis and I took a long walk to the Textile Museum – which was rather disappointing – but just walking along any street in Japan you will always find surprises.

Another day the entire group met up to tour the grounds of the Kinkakuji Temple. It was late afternoon and yet we had to wait in line to be admitted as it was filled with tourists – mostly Japanese – who wanted to view this beautiful, serene Buddhist temple that sits at the water’s edge.

I took dozens of photos as we walked around it – and the sun was kind enough to come out and make you realize the temple is totally covered in shimmering gold leaf!

There were stalls where you could purchase ‘prayers’ to leave at the site, and women and even some men, dressed in full kimono dress.

One evening Phyllis and I took a ‘free walking tour’ of the Gion District. Gion is Kyoto’s geisha district, with hostesses in colorful kimonos often sighted on the wooden Tatsumi Bridge, or amid upscale Japanese restaurants and boutiques on Hanamikoji Street. Gion Corner hosts traditional Kyomai dances, while Kennin-ji Temple is known for its Zen garden and Yasaka Shrine has seasonal festivals in a lantern-lit courtyard. Nightlife ranges from quiet sake bars to buzzing, pub-like izakayas.

This is where the famous Geisha live and entertain. We learned less than 1,000 geisha are working in Japan today. Their training is rigorous and years long. These modern geisha tend to remain within their district, where they’re treated with the utmost respect by Japanese locals, and not approached for photos or conversation. It is a sheltered and secluded life for a young woman. She must possess a talent in music, and traditional dance, be able to perform the formal tea ceremony, and be conversant on almost any topic. She is a ‘hostess’ and yes, she is paid for the time she spends with you. But a geisha definitely does not provide and is NOT paid for sex.

We just happened to be the very last tour group allowed to wander through the Gion District as a new law went into effect the next day outlawing tourists from being in this historic area of Kyoto. Rowdy drunken tourists had for years harassed the geishas late at night. The local population had voted overwhelmingly to protect them and this area where they lived and worked. Most streets and alleyways would now be closed to tour groups and the public in general. Heavy fines would be imposed if caught where you shouldn’t be. I was so happy to be able to snap a few photos of the area on its last night open to the public. And yes, it was ok to snap a rushing, young geisha-in-training (she with the white obi – not black) on her way to work,

Another evening I took a very long ‘free walking tour’ of old Kyoto at night. It was up and down hills, and lasted almost 4 hours! but I saw some beautiful areas. Everything looks so much different at night when softly lit by Japanese lanterns.

Before we left Kyoto, I had one of the best meet-ups ever! I have written about my mentoring several Italian college students. I was asked to do this by their English professor from the University of Sienna. Patti is an American, married to an Italian, who works as a guide for Rick Steves, and I met her when I house and pet sat for them in December/January 2020/21.

One of those young women, Aurora, and I have stayed in touch now for 5 years. During that time she graduated from university, got her Masters in Turin, finally got to do a long Covid-postponed internship in China, and landed a great job back in Italy. She studied for degrees in world economics and the Chinese language while learning to speak and write English a bit better, with my help – though she could already do both quite well.

We became friends, but the timing was always off whenever we were close enough to meet in person. Our long conversations over the years have been on WhatsApp. But now she was in China and she and a friend had some free time and were thinking of coming to Japan for a few days – could we meet up in Kyoto! Finally! YES!!!

We only had one evening together. They had planned a very busy itinerary, seeing and doing as much as they could in the short amount of break time they had.

We met up at a true ramen restaurant where we sat in individual little compartments, each with a wooden window that rolled up and then out came our order of beer and delicious soup. We had had to lean around a wooden partition to talk to each other but it was so fun to actually see her smiling face! I am so proud of her. She thinks I played a small part in her educational experience. Ha!

I was planning to continue writing about our next stop, Yokohama, which Phylis was so excited to visit since she hadn’t been back since she lived there during junior high. But Part 3 is really getting long – are you up for a few more photos?

To get from Kyoto to Yokohama, we boarded one of Japan’s Shinkansen electric bullet trains which reaches up to 199 MPH. Amazingly, they are soooooo quiet, comfortable, and convenient. I was lucky to be sitting on the right side to snap this photo through the window when the train slowed down just a bit. The yellowish color is from the train’s tinted window – but here was Mt. Fuji in all its snow-topped glory!

Facts about Yokohama I did not know – it is Japan’s 2nd largest city in area and population. It’s Japan’s largest port, it’s the tech hub of the Tokyo area, has its own, very popular pro baseball team, and is the home of the world’s largest Chinatown!

We rode on several buses to get to find Phyllis’ ‘house’, toured a beautiful local park where she used to play with friends, went to the Ramen Noodle Museum where we stood in line for over an hour to have a bowl of soup in a very weird cave-like edifice inside the Museum. If you click on the Noodle Museum link, you will learn about every kind of ramen, how it’s made, its history and so much more! We had planned to also tour the Cup of Noodles Museum, but it was closed. 😞

We walked through Chinatown during both day and nighttime, and around the outside of their huge, modern baseball stadium which was just across the road from our hotel. Unfortunately, the BayStars had a home game the day after we left for Tokyo, or else we would have gotten tickets. And of course, we saw unusual and unique things, as well – a couple posing for their wedding photos in traditional dress, a weirdly cool sign on a train, and another colorful pothole cover.

It was quite a nice day and a half visit. It was especially nice seeing Phyllis in places from her memory that brought a large smile to her face.

Where to now, after this exceptionally long post? TOKYO!!

Until next time….